BBC CHEVY 540/555 COMPLETE ENGINE HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 720 HP. This engine is fully assembled from intake to oil pan. Fall is here, and as usual this is the slowest time of the year for us. The timeline to build an engine now has been greatly reduced to around 5-10 days in most cases.
Race build season will start around mid January and this timeline to get a complete engine will change greatly. The picture above is an engine with our former line of cylinder heads. They will display the AFR engraved logo in the front of heads as seen in the picture below of an engine we were in the process of building. Our engines can also be built for use in marine applications.Pictured below is one of our bbc engines in a customer's boat. We also offer our engines with a lower cost basic front accessory kit, with electric water pump option and with no turn-key options at all (base engine). See all our engine listings.
We also offer our bbc engines setup with a blower as pictured below. WISECO FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT COMPETITION SERIES RODS, DART BLOCK, AFR ENFORCER 335cc ALUMINUM HEADS. 4.500-4.560" BORE X 4.250" STROKE. NEW GENERATION DART BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS.
AFR ENFORCER 335cc ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS. ROLLER CAM AND HOWARDS TIE BAR STREET STRIP ROLLER LIFTERS. SA GEAR BILLET TIMING SET WITH TORRINGTON BEARING AND ROLON CHAIN 9 KEYWAY.
BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS. SCAT COMPETITION RODS WITH ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS. MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD. CHAMP CUSTOM OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM. Our 540/555 Hydraulic Roller cam engine will produce 720 horse power at approx.The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing. This engine is an excellent choice for use in classic street rods, sport trucks, 4x4 trucks, and can be used as a daily driver. High mileage use is not a problem with this engine. This is engine may also be setup for use in larger work trucks, or motor homes. We can also set any of our engines up for marine use. This engine will produce nearly triple the horse power of the original bbc 396, 427 and 454's and much greater torque. For those wanting to put this engine in a classic car or sport truck, select cam choice # 1 or # 2 with the Hurricane intake. This engine will deliver very impressive power in the lower rpm range, and have a very high degree of drivability and long life. See our other listings for the fully dressed out turn-key version. This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners. Cams #3 and #4 are our favorites for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability without needing to deepen final gearing or the need for a high stall speed torque converter.
If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,500 lbs and/or cars with a steep (tall) final gear. Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine.It is very important that you choose the correct cam and intake for your car and its intended purpose. Here are a few good reasons why we think the 540/555 engine is a better choice than the stock GM bbc engine. The 540/555 will accelerate any heavy car much better than any of the underpowered original GM bbc engines. The exhaust note from this big block engine is much deeper than that of the typical stock GM big block engines. Installing this engine in heavy cars or trucks without killing acceleration, or having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter is a real plus.
This engine will accelerate a 7500 lb vehicle much better than any stock bbc engine. Low maintenance and high drivability even in very heavy cars and trucks, while generating up to 720 hp at close to the same cost as building a 496 stock engine. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There's nothing unsafe about running an engine that's well built like this up to 5,800 rpm.
The hydraulic roller cam is very reliable and will not require a bronze distributor gear, as it has a normal cast gear. Our aluminum heads use very high quality hardware.
All of our valves are from PBM, and are considered to be very high quality valves. Should you ever decide to sell your car, or truck with this engine, the resale value would be much greater. We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule.
The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 10/25/2016, we completed installation of our second brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. This dyno is dedicated for dyno testing and tuning on our bbc engine line only.
De-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos will move the torque into the low rpm range, and is very desirable if you're sporting around on the street, rather than all-out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree.
Throttle response is also noticeably better. We can help you with a cam and intake selection that best suits your needs. The build sheet is as follows.
BBC NEW GENERATION DART BLOCK BORE 9.800 STD DECK HEIGHT. We now use the New Generation Dart blocks in our BBC 572 engine builds.
The New Generation Dart block is light years ahead in overall construction as compared to any of the other blocks on the market. Dimensional specs are spot on, and this has been an issue with other blocks we have used in the past. Many of the top engine builders, ourselves included, have found the new Dart block to be superior to the earlier generation Big M series Dart block in many ways.Dart Machinery has completely redesigned the Big M series Block. They have incorporated numerous improvements and new features to virtually every area of the block. The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy. We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx.
The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine. We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx.
001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.
The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer. Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below). The photos above and below are file photos.
This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house. Rear Main Seal: 2 pc RMS.
Rod Type: Scat I-beam, Bronze Bushed. Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy. Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 8740 Cap Screws. High Performance for street/strip use.
Piston Size: 4.500-4.560. Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy. Piston Rings: Mahle High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension. Ring Size and Fit: 1/16 1/16 3/16 File Fit. Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.Balance: In House on CWT balancer. Damper: Pro-Race brand SFI 7.0. Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth.
Listed below is a complete breakdown of all the parts that are included in this engine. WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP.WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY. The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. Are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine. Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels.
The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat. Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height. Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is.
010 taller on bbc pistons, and. 015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature. Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. 005.010 off the deck surface of the block.Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block.
On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about. 005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck. You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only.
This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect. These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
The picture below is a file photo of our Wiseco pistons. MAHLE HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS.
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft. Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft. The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance.
The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing. Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build.
This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks.We bring that number down to below considerably. We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines. Our choice of rods are the SCAT COMPETITION SERIES rods with ARP-8740 cap screws. The Scat Pro-Comp extreme duty I-beam rods should not be mistaken for ProComp rods.
These rods are made exclusively by Scat, and have nothing to do with the ProComp company. The critical sizing and installation of the ARP cap screws is performed on a Sunnen machine in the USA by Scat Industries. These rods are excellent for those wanting the extra security offered by a rod with 7/16 ARP cap screws.
Take notice of the design of these rods. They are far superior to conventional style I-beam rods. We are now using this rod in all of our Stage 4 and up SBC engines. We also use this rod in our big block 540/496/555 engines, making approx.
If you do a search on the Scat Pro-Comp rods, you will find a vast amount of info on many car forums. All of the info is 100% positive. These rods are run in engines that not only produce high horsepower levels, but also run at continuous RPM.Notice the general appearance in the pictures. These rods do look impressive. The style is reminiscent of a steel billet rod.
The fact that these rods are incredibly strong and well made, coupled with the fact they are light weight and offer better clearance than any H-Beam rod on the market, made it an easy decision to use them in all of our high horsepower street/strip engines. Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws. We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways.You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine.
As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines. Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways.They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods. PRO RACE BRAND SFI HARMONIC DAMPER, 7.0 DIAMETER INCLUDED. Pro-Race brand dampers are used on all of our engines.
We have noticed others using a low grade knockoff brand damper/balancer, and we have encountered them in the past. They are substandard in appearance, and are often out of spec. The timing marks were also poorly marked on some of the balancers we have come across. Another problem with low grade dampers is the elastomer bonding can lose its adherence to the inner and outer structure. This problem is referred to as a slipped damper.
We have only encountered this once in 10 years with the Pro-Race brand dampers. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR ENGINES AS WE DO. We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past.
However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines. HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED. This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear.
They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated. We offer premium grade Ram brand SFI Billet Steel flywheels for those running a manual transmission at an additional cost.This engine includes an SFI flexplate for automatic transmission use at no additional cost. We offer two different size flexplates and flywheels. 153 and 168 tooth count. We have both sizes available and it is very important that we know what size you need to. We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing.
We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight. Our crew wrapping up for the day. AFR 335cc ENFORCER ALUMINUM HEADS. Assembled by us with premium PBM competition grade valves, Melling springs, Comp retainers, Comp Viton valve seals, Comp spring ID locators, Comp 10 degree locks. Notice the multi angle valve seat cut.These heads are designed to very high standards. More pictures below of some the details on our new AFR Enforcer heads. Pictured below is a heads up shot of the front. The AFR logos on the front of the heads really stands out much better in person. The indoor lighting and camera flash created a good bit of glare. Many customers in the past have upgraded to the AFR heads so we have decided to include them on all of our BBC engine builds. The quality and detailed machine work is outstanding as compared to any of the low cost heads on the market. Below are our actual flow numbers for our new line of AFR Enforcer bbc heads. These numbers are true and accurate. The testing methods we use are considered to be on the conservative side. Some choose to show flow charts for their heads that have been done in a way that shows numbers that are misleading in our opinion. We now use the AFR Enforcer heads on most all of our bbc engines builds all the way up to our street rod 632 engine. The horse power numbers they produce are exceptional as compared to most heads of this size. Fel Pro 1057 premium race grade series head gaskets, ARP head bolts, and rocker studs. ARP HEAD BOLTS AND WASHERS AND ROCKER STUDS. We are offering four cam choices listed below in this engine. The new Ultra Pro MagnumT Roller Rocker Arms not only live up to the lofty standards of the original Pro MagnumsT, but they also take stud mount rocker performance, stability and value to a whole new level. The modern arched, web-like design delivers increased strength and rigidity while still reducing the moment of inertia and optimizing the dynamic balance. If you've read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers.
They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed.
The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces. We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build. We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this.
I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble. We use Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers in all of our BBC engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge.
We have on occasion used the Scorpion line or roller rockers in our engines when the Comp Ultra Pro Magnums are not available. Premium Morel Hydraulic Roller Lifters. Our choice of lifters are the Morel brand tie bar lifters. These lifters are much costlier than the regular tie bar roller lifters, and have many unique features.
Engines using larger cams will have the Comp Short Travel, Comp Evolution series, or Gaterman Max Effort lifters in them. We have also been setting up some engines that run the larger hyd. Roller cams with what is referred to as a hybrid valve train.
This setup offers the maximum amount of protection and performance when running cam choice 1. We use Trend brand premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel.
Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc.Design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened, " as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
Pictured below is our Speedmaster single plane intake. Important note: in the near future we will be using the Weiand Track Warrior single plane intake pictured below on all our BBC engines that choose the single plane intake. We have found them to improve HP numbers by about 10-20 hp depending on cam choice. The Weiand intake is also a much higher quality intake in attention to detail, fit & finish, and overall appearance. As of this time, 3/18/22 the Weiand intakes are not available.
We have had about 50 of them on back order for the past 8 months. When they do become available, we will immediately list them as the standard single plane intake on all of our bbc engines. We have not been given a date as to when we might receive these. We also offer the Edelbrock satin RPM Air Gap intake as an alternate choice at no extra charge. This intake is often used in conjunction with the smaller cam choices for de-tuning, and offers much better hood clearance as compared to the line of single plane intakes.304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINE S. Cam Choice # 1 By Comp Cams.
Cam choice # 1 offers fair to decent drivability and upper mid range power. Valve train stability and longevity when using a hydraulic roller cam are somewhat compromised with this cam as compared to the others below. This would only be an issue is the vehicle is to be driven a higher than normal amount of miles or encounters frequent racing. Max power will be achieved at approx. It is recommended that you select the single plane intake with this cam.
This cam has a very aggressive (lopey/choppy) sound at idle. We have safeguarded the valve train components against pre-mature failure by using special lifters and running the valve springs with a slight increase in pressure. This cam is what would be considered a pre-pro-street setup.Final gearing when used in a car or sport truck should be in the 3.40 to 3.73 range. Transmissions with overdrive will not operate well in overdrive gear when using this cam choice. This cam would be most suitable in vehicles weighing up to 4000 lbs or less. This cam may not develop enough vacuum to operate power brakes.
Storage canister will be required. Official Dyno Results on Cam Choice 1 in our 555 engine with a single plane intake and our new 335cc rectangular port heads. Cam Choice # 2 By Comp Cams. Cam choice # 2 offers a slight increase in bottom end torque compared to cam choice # 1. This cam selection is the best choice for cars that have medium to tall gearing.
Very good acceleration with improved street manners. The peak horse power falls about 15-20 under cam choice # 1. This cam would also be excellent for medium to heavy vehicles. Max power is achieved at approx.
This cam has been very popular for those more concerned about drivability and outright longevity of the valve train and engine. Off idle power is very good. We see no drawbacks to going with this cam.The power in the low rpm range is amazing. Vacuum may be enough for operating power brakes. This is our most popular cam choice.
Idle is still very choppy and lopey much like cam choice 1 but smooths out a bit sooner, and power comes in earlier. Official Dyno report with this cam choice, Bravo heads, a single plane intake, and an MSD distributor. Cam Choice # 3 By Comp Cams. Cam choice # 3 offers a much greater amount of bottom end torque as compared to the other cam choices above.
Throttle response is instant with this cam selection. This cam selection is the best choice for cars that have tall gearing and or overdrive transmissions. Excellent acceleration and street manners.
The peak horse power falls an additional amount of about 15-20 under cam choice # 2. This cam would also be excellent for medium to heavy vehicles, and 4x4 pickups. This cam has been very popular for those more concerned about drivability and outright longevity of the valve train and engine engine. The valve train wear with this cam would be virtually non-existent.
Off idle power is excellent. The power in the low to mid rpm range is amazing. Vacuum should be enough for operating power brakes.
Long range cruising and operating air conditioning is not an issue with this cam. Driveability is excellent with this cam choice. Cam Choice # 4 By Comp Cams. Cam choice # 4 offers a very high level of torque in the lower rpm range.
Idle speed may be reduced with this cam as compared to the other cam choices. Tall gearing and overdrive transmissions are not a problem with this cam choice. The peak horse power falls an additional amount of about 15-20 under cam choice # 3. The valve train and overall engine wear would be virtually non-existent with this cam. The power in the low to mid rpm range is much better than any of the cam choices above.
Fuel mileage would most likely be best with this cam. Vacuum will be more than enough for operating power brakes. We have several different options in valve covers. Here are our most popular choices.These are just a few of our popular valve covers you may choose from. We do have several more choices to select from in our other listings at no additional cost. Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set. We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain.
The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
One more benefit of this timing set is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion. The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body. The 8 qt Champ oil pan has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing 6 qt. Pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4 to 1/2 a quart. Doing this may greatly reduce the chance of oil leaks, and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 7.0 to 7.5 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan that has the flat ribbed bottom with kickouts on the side.
When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 5.5 to 5.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter. Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick.This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are often made from various manufacturers and we often see variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.
The quality of these pans far exceed any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines. We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.
Melling # 10774 M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud. The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-77 Series used by many engine builders. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
The M-Select oil pump is nearly three times the cost of the regular M-77. We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
Our new 555 engine is premium pump gas friendly. Do not run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only, (91-93 octane). Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter (spark knock) in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees and/or invest in a high quality octane boost additive. For those with heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, we strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine.
We have dyno tested the original creation of this engine with every cam and intake choice available extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost.The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel. THIS ENGINE IS BUILT WITH THE BEST AVAILABLE PARTS WITH CONSIDERATION TO KEEPING THE COST OF THIS ENGINE REASONABLE. We offer this engine with selected upgrades and options. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 XT EFI System. This has become a very popular upgrade on many of our engines. For those not wanting to deal with the potential quirks of a carburetor, this is the way to go. This is a true fuel injection system with 8 injectors, (one per cylinder). Drivability becomes vastly improved over a carb or standard throttle body efi. Throttle response in the low to mid rpm range is superior to that of a carburetor. Startup and warm-up are also greatly improved. Tuning stays spot on regardless of altitude or weather conditions. These systems make it very easy to tweak the tuning on your engine to better serve your application. Our engine room crew has found the Edelbrock Pro-Flo system to be a very straightforward setup. This system comes with its own high energy variable ignition system. The timing is controlled through the built in ECU. The Pro-Flo system has a slightly higher cost, but is well worth it, in our very strong opinion. Our company founder, Skip White, stated that he has no problems with running a carb on a street rod engine, but the ability to tune the engine to perfection and the fact that fuel metering is so perfect with the Pro-Flo system has changed how he thinks an engine should receive its fuel and air, and variable ignition timing allows for max power when driving under optimal conditions. The difference in drive between the two is vast, to say the least. We have installed approximately 50 of these on engines in our dyno room, and have yet to encounter any problems. This system provides you with a high performance Pro-Flo XT-style intake and 90mm throttle body. Unlike regular throttle body EFI systems, Pro-Flo 4 features the fuel rails and individual injectors for each cylinder mounted on the manifold. This Edelbrock design produces the best fuel atomization and distribution for the ultimate performance, as well as delivering the most control and the most efficient way to deliver fuel to your engine.
Along with innovative design, Pro-Flo 4 systems have the latest technology with an all-new ECU, and even more features for advanced tuning, with the key being their exclusive E-Tuner app with base calibrations developed on their dyno. Cost for this upgrade is calculated by taking the retail difference between the intake manifold that comes with this engine and the retail cost of the Edelbrock Pro-Flo System.
This is a great value with many benefits, in our opinion. ARP-2000 rod bolts: This is one upgrade that we find to be very valuable. The rod bolts are most likely to fail under hard use, moreso than the rod itself. When a rod bolt fails during high RPM, total engine destruction is usually the result.The ARP-2000 rod bolts are a very good upgrade, in our opinion. We actually have few, if any, problems with the regular ARP-8740 bolts, but those who run hard always upgrade to the ARP-2000 rod bolts. The ARP-2000 rod bolts also torque at a higher number, and this increased clamping force is also a factor in keeping the big end of the rod stable and true to size. The ARP-2000 bolts are installed in the rods and this upgrade is only available with the Competition rod upgrade.
Please go to the "UPGRADES" category of our store to add upgrades. Wiseco BoostLine Rods and Tool Steel Wrist Pin upgrade.For those wanting ultimate protection in their engine, this upgrade is the answer. The Pro-Pac kit comes with the Wiseco BoostLine rods, tool steel thick wall wrist pins, and ARP 2000 rod bolts. This is an excellent upgrade for those running any type of forced induction, (blowers, NOS, twin turbo, high compression builds). This is also an excellent upgrade for those running naturally aspirated street rod engines. Connecting rod or rod bolts and/or wrist pin failures will usually cause catastrophic damage to the engine. The Pro-Pac kit can handle horse power levels in the 2,000+ range. The 4340 alloy has been through a very special heat treating process. These rods are what we use on all of our extreme high HP applications. As mentioned, this is also an excellent upgrade for medium HP builds that may encounter some hard run time. BBC engines that have been stroked above 4.250 can greatly benefit from this setup.
It's well known that engines with long stroke cranks have a greatly increased load on the rods and wrist pins when encountering rpm in the upper ranges. We consider this upgrade very valuable for those that encounter any serious running. The Pro-Pac upgrade includes three actual upgrades: the rods, tool steel wrist pins, and the ARP 2000 rod bolts. Our company founder, Skip White, sums this upgrade up in a few words: bullet proof.
The idea that when you bring your engine rpm up to its limits, and know that the breaking point is often not far away, this upgrade offers a great amount of protection from what could be total engine destruction. BoostLine connecting rods are designed from the ground up for high-power forced induction and nitrous applications as well as naturally aspirated engines. A patented 3-pocket design, forged from a special 4340 alloy, maximizes strength while minimizing rotating weight. This revolutionary design dramatically improves the rod's big-end stability under tensile loads and provides a 60% improvement in bending strength and 20% stress reduction in tension compared to H-beam designs. All of these benefits make BoostLine rods ideal for any street rod or racing engine.
In addition to BoostLine's innovative design, comprehensive real-world testing, finite element analysis, and meticulous quality control ensure that all BoostLine rods are fit for 2,000-plus horsepower (8-cylinder applications). All BoostLine rods include high-quality ARP 2000 bolts. Every rod is inspected and finish-honed in America in addition to being analyzed on a Zeiss CMM as part of the final inspection. A detailed inspection report measuring to.
Is provided with every set of BoostLine rods. Also included with this upgrade are the JE tool steel wrist pins. For high-impact, drag race, and endurance applications. JE Pistons offers the Series 52.
Are constructed from 52100 high carbon bearing steel and through-hardened for added stability. All JE pistons are super-finished on both the outside and inside diameters to help reduce. Bore wear and minimize fatigue.Cracking, adding to the overall strength and reliability of the. Employing the latest in technology and quality control. Are checked for the tiniest flaws and to ensure the roundness of each. Are available in a variety of lengths, diameters, and wall thicknesses. They are specifically developed for use with JE pistons. Dyno Tuning: This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating.
After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle.We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT, (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound.
At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb.Jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit. Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above.
An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers.
We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect.
When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still, occur but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have.
We have two of these in use at our shop. The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry. This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for two years from date of sale. Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Ue to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we are not responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs.
Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. The first six months will cover parts and labor, and the second half of the one year period will cover parts only. Marine engines must upgrade to a 4340 crank unless the engine already comes with this, and the ARP-2000 rod bolts. SFI dampers are also required for all marine engines.
Some of our engines come standard with the SFI damper. Our engines are custom built to your specifications e. Cam choice, intake, engine color, compression ratio, and upgrades.
You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem. Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc.
These values should be in the recommended safe zone. We strongly recommend the use of our new line of ATM carburetors. They are of exceptional quality.It is recommended that you re-torque the intake manifold after the first 1000 miles. The gasket sealant tends to shrink after a period of time and this may cause the intake bolts to lose their proper torque values. The torque range is approx.
The spark plug gaps should all be re-checked before you first start this engine. For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. 040.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. 035.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components.
Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs. If your engine came equipped with a front end accessory setup, we recommend that you check all of the bracket and pulley bolts. It would be rare to find any of them loose, and it should only take a few minutes to check. We would also like you check the belt alignment.
Check your flexplate or flywheel bolts. Check fuel bowl levels in the sight glass on the carb once you have the engine running.Be sure your fuel pressure is set in the correct range of approx. Adjust the choke on the carb. We would prefer you set the choke to a loose setting. Setting it tightly may allow it do its job better, but can cause engine damage over a period of time due to excess fuel entering the engine upon warm up. Be sure to use a high quality fuel filter. If your running an electric fuel pump you may not even need the choke.
If your engine comes with one of our street strip carbs with a milled air horn, then you must run an electric fuel pump, as these high performance carbs do not come with a choke. You may not find a problem with any of the items mentioned above, but considering the small amount of time it takes to check them, we find it to be a valuable preventive measure. As it's been said, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the recommendations listed below. Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations. This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such as our Schaeffer brand racing oil. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Micron Moly 20w-50 grade in warm to hot weather.
The part number for this oil is 0191-012, or you may run the 10w-30 weight Schaeffer Supreme 7000 series semi synthetic oil in cooler weather. The part number for this oil is 709-012 for the full case. After the engine is fully broken in, you may move over the Schaeffer full synthetic oil. The Schaeffer brand oil is very highly rated.
It is the only brand of oil we use when dyno tuning. Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.
We offer a full line of this oil in our other listings. Here is a brief outline of the average additive levels in the Schaeffer Oils as compared to Valvoline VR1. We only use Schaeffer 20w-50 oil in our dyno room, and strongly recommend its use in our engines.
The 10W-30 7000 series oil is totally acceptable to use once the engine is broke in especially in cool weather. The 20W-50 Micron Moly is also an excellent choice to use in warm weather. Continue reading for info on what type oil filters to use. 191 Micron Moly 20W-50 Racing Oil.
Soluble Moly = 350 ppm. A couple of things worth mentioning: Valvoline VR1 doesn't report any Moly in their oil. Schaeffer uses a soluble form of Moly that bonds to metal under heat, pressure, and movement. Once fully bonded, it takes over 500,000 psi per square inch.Schaeffer Oil has the best base stocks and additives that make it the best oil on the market. Come with oil in it. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for metal particles.
The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. Racing oil filters such as the Wix Racing oil filter may only be used after the engine is completely broken in and we would prefer that you stay with the 20W-50 Shaeffer oil when running the racing filter. These racing filters have a very loose media and provide very little resistance and a high oil flow volume, but due to the loose media, they don't filter small particles of debris from the oil. They are only to be used on engines that do not see high mileage use, and have gone through one or two oil changes with low micron rated filters.These filters are very good quality, and made by Purolator. This oil filter that we supply has an internal by-pass valve in it and is rated at 25 micron filtration.
Run the oil and filter for a period of approx. 500 miles, and be sure to warm the engine up to complete operating temp before going above 2500 rpm. The part number for the Summit/Purolator oil filter we use is 127007 for the short version, and 127004 for the medium length. Wix Racing filter part number is 51061R for the medium length version, and 51069R for the short version. As mentioned the racing filters are ONLY to be used for reduced mileage driving, and must be changed along with the engine oil more often than the more restrictive filters.The racing filter is not to be used as the first filter on a brand new engine. You may wonder why we're using an extended life oil filter but want it replaced in such a short period.
These extended life oil filters are an excellent choice for a brand new engine. They have a much larger capacity for the higher amount of debris developed from the new engine. They also have better designed bypass valves and stronger cases on them.
All of these features are essential to a brand new engine when debris levels are highest until the engine is fully broke-in. Our engines are now equipped with a billet oil filter adapter that requires the use of an oil filter that has its own by-pass valve in it, unless you are using a true racing filter. The racing filters do not require the by-pass valve in them due to the fact they have such a loose media. Always opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version. If your headers are an issue with the medium length filter, then the shorty version is acceptable.
Billet aluminum oil filter adapter. Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about.
You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm. When the time comes to change your first oil filter, the Wix racing filter will most likely improve oil pressure. You will be required to change your oil and filter more frequently when using the Wix Racing filters.If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
There are many special additives in true race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine.
Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil. The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives. This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 5.5-6.5 psi.A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod that we offer, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. Only use engine oils with high levels of zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Racing oil.
See our other listings for this oil. You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature.
We strongly recommend using a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. The exhaust evac system we recommend is made by Moroso.
The benefits are numerous as compared to the typical pcv system. Potential oil leaks are greatly reduced or eliminated by using the exhaust evac system. Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed. Check and reset the timing if needed.
Drive safely please but keep your engine under load more than normal and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern. This is why race engines are dynoed. To put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will partially seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing.
Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls. If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output.Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for full synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving. You must prime your new oil filter. Priming is not needed when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. If your new engine has been sitting around for weeks, or possibly months, then you must prime the oil filter.
Some of our engines offer and extended capacity Champ oil pan that has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side and has a square flat bottom but depth is only about half an inch different from the stock style pan.If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing oil pan. This style pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. 1/4th to 1/2 a quart. Doing this may greatly reduce the chance of oil leaks, and reduce oil temps as well as other issues caused by windage. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts create a large amount of windage and are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark if needed. You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct.
We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must. If you are using your own carb. On this engine, then you must be sure the fuel to air ratio is correct. If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.
If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption. A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage. The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx.
12.5:1 and up to approx. 13.5:1 Set total timing at 32-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. The closer to the lower number (32 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.We do not recommend running the vacuum advance with this engine. Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more.
Use heavy gauge battery cables. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting. Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it.Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging, spark knock or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load. You may run regular gas in an emergency situation, but drive the car with reduced acceleration until you can find premium fuel.
In some cases we can build certain engines with a reduced compression that will run on regular fuel or mid-grade, but these engines are to be setup with greatly reduced camshaft profiles. Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping (aka spark knock) for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly. Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine when running in very hot climate.
Race grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.You may also use NGK part # NGK 4554, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug. The NGK plug is only to be run during very hot weather.
You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. A slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting.However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges. Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing. Never use any of the modern day type antifreeze formulas that are used in most newer cars. This will most likely destroy the gasket material used in these engines.
We have a customer that used the orange colored antifreeze made for Toyota trucks as he happened to have this on hand. This led to a failure of the high quality Felpro intake gaskets. The print seal material was partially dissolved allowing great amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber.This led to a catastrophic engine failure. The correct type of antifreeze to use should be ethylene glycol based, usually green colored. There are some animal safe substitutes on the market that should be ok to use. A mixture of 50/50 or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Keep the engine temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this unless you are running the smaller engine cam choices.
The reduced size cams would allow for a lower idle speed. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period. Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases. Using half a quart less oil can greatly reduce potential oil leaks.This is a common practice in many high performance engines. If your engine is equipped with a choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine, and will huge amounts of fuel. If you feel you can get by without using the choke, then by all means do without it!The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all. Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance-free and require little if any maintenance. Some of our engines come setup with what is known as a hybrid valvetrain. These require very little maintenance and are very reliable. Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers.
We know there's always room for improvement. We're always working on research and development, as does any successful business.
We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis. Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems.We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information. However, beware of some individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines. Engines that are setup with a full solid roller valvetrain should not be driven for excessively long distances or for long periods of time on the street. A weekend of racing at the drag strip would likely have less of an effect on the valve train components than a 100 mile easy drive as far as wear is concerned. If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend staying with our hydraulic roller cam package or the hybrid valve train setup.
See our other listings for info on all of our engines. Engines with a full solid roller valvetrain do require an occasional lash adjustment.
Your engine info will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. Many have asked why we're able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It's because we're a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing.We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built. Your engine will be in a crate on a pallet, and you will receive a roll around engine cradle at no additional cost. The value of the engine cradle and lift plate is approx. We then build a heavy duty custom engine crate that is bolted and nailed onto the base over the engine and once again shrink wrap the complete crate for added strength. You must have a dock or fork lift.
We can have the engine delivered to a residence with lift gate service but at an additional cost. Transmission Recommendations by Skip White. Your selection of what type transmission you're going to use with your new engine is very important. I'm going to give you the real lowdown on what transmissions I recommend, as well as the ones I would stay away from.
For those building a mild, (detuned) street rod, (small cam choice, dual plane intake) these recommendations are not as critical. We offer an excellent line of automatic performance rated transmissions built by TCI. The quality and cost are excellent. 700R4: Worst possible transmission choice when used with moderate to high horse power engines.Driving at 50 and above in overdrive certainly has its advantages such as increased fuel mileage, reduced wear and tear on the engine, less engine noise, reduced emissions/pollution. Fuel injection/EFI does make this transmission operate much better providing the cam choice, intake manifold and final gearing are setup correctly. To setup an engine to operate properly with this transmission requires a detuning of the engine and top end horse power is greatly reduced. Very wide first to second gear spread.
First gear is a 3.06 ratio Second is a 1.62 ratio. This nearly equates to skipping from first to third gear with a manual trans. This kills acceleration when these trans go into second gear on a carbureted engine with a healthy cam and large runner intake manifold. Compare this to a TH350.
First gear at 2.52 ratio and second gear is 1.52, do the math. The 3.06 first gear is so low that any final gear of above 3.55 or numerically higher will have you right at the max rpm at around 35 mph, only to then have your car fall on its face when it hits second gear, feeling like it skipped a gear. Wheel spin is uncontrollable upon hard launches, unless you have a very tall final gear, and then you can for sure count on going nowhere quickly when second gear comes in. Overdrive would be totally useless at highway speed regardless of detuning with a tall final gear, unless you were cruising at around 100 mph.
Huge cost to build up to a decent street rod level. Don't even consider a stock rebuild to handle 500 hp or more.Under hard use, the 700R4 will fail quickly. Limited as to what level these can be built up to. High performance transmission builders and parts suppliers don't even recognize this as a serious transmission.
More complex to build than a TH350 and far more expensive, especially when built up to handle high hp numbers. Having to run a cumbersome throttle value cable to the carb. This feature actually serves a good purpose, but if not set properly, it can destroy your transmission quickly. Very critical adjustment, and often overlooked. The overdrive is actually useless with engines running decent size cams relative to the cubic inch, especially with large runner dual plane intakes, and single plane intakes are out of the question with this trans.
Stall converters are double the cost of the one run in a TH350. This is not a very reliable transmission in a street rod. Lowers the value of your vehicle to some degree, especially on high hp builds. These transmissions do not belong in most carbureted street rods. You must detune an engine considerably to operate the overdrive and be able to tolerate the first to second gear drop.
Could be classified as the worst mismatch of parts known on a true street rod. As a side note, I would like to mention that most of us have owned a regular stock street car with a 700R4 trans, or its electronic likeness, a 4L60E, and didn't find much of an issue with the way they operated, especially if the vehicle was fuel injected.This is because stock car engines are designed to operate totally different in the very low rpm range. They have huge amounts of off idle torque compared to the average carbureted street rod that makes 400 hp or more. This off idle instant torque allows the vehicle to keep its speed up decently when the 700R4 drops into second gear, and the same low rpm also allows the overdrive gear to operate normally at very low rpm. There are other factors that also allow these trans. To operate at low rpm, especially on fuel injected computer driven engines.
TH350: Best transmission choice, hands down. Excellent gear spread between all three gears. Most all transmission shops are capable of building these to at least level 1 or 2. No TV cable to deal with.Stall converters are low in cost, and the selection is broad. Very reliable and simple to repair if needed. Select a final gear that will allow you the best overall performance and one that allows a decent off the line acceleration, and one that will be in a tolerable rpm range at highway speed.
You must have the correct stall converter for optimal performance. This can make a huge difference in the way your vehicle accelerates. These are becoming scarce, but there are still plenty of them around, and high performance parts are easily obtained.You may have to go through this long story to your less than knowledgeable friends as to why you didn't choose a 700R4, and when you explain it to them, they may still think you don't know what you' re talking about. TH400, Excellent choice for high powered engines in heavy cars or trucks. Very similar to a TH350. Simple and inexpensive to rebuild or repair. Best suited when running high powered big block engines and more so when used and heavy vehicles.
The TH350 has far more high performance parts available at reasonable costs. The 400 trans is not best suited for racing.Internal rotating parts (cast iron drum) are very heavy and create a huge drag compared to most any other trans. And this is not a subtle amount of drag. The TH400 is well known to be a heavier duty trans.
Than a TH350 but this heavy duty factor was designed more for heavy vehicles coupled with high powered engines that may encounter pulling heavy loads or vehicles with tall gearing. Only the largest of the GM cars weighing around 5000 lbs had these trans. In them, along with heavy duty pickups, usually 3/4 ton or larger trucks. Even the half ton Chevy trucks didn't come with these in them.They will certainly hold up better than a stock built TH350, but they are not a desirable trans. You can build a TH350 to level two or three that would be superior to any stock TH400 in every way for about the same cost. We offer the TH400 trans built to level 3 and this trans. Is best suited in high powered big block engines, in cars that are somewhat heavy.
You will seldom see this trans in a true light weight Pro-Street car. Shops are able to build this trans with ease. Very reliable, and simple to work on. Not much to go wrong. Decent first to second gear spread.
Rotational drag is very low with this trans. More so than any automatic on the market. Stall converters are not expensive and many choices available. Often used in 1/8 mile drag racing. Two gears, that's the problem.Can only be run in cars that have a very high hp to weight ratio. It would be fair to say a vehicle weighing approx. 3400 lbs would require an engine output of 1000 hp or more to make it a rational choice, and even then, you would still need a decent final gear to get things moving off the line. The first gear in these is somewhat tall. Those running a T-Bucket roadster weighing around 1800 lbs.
With a 500 hp or higher engine could make great use of a Powerglide trans. Having only two gears limits having the best of both worlds when it comes to off the line acceleration and cruising at highway speed.
The final gear choice limits the general use of your car greatly. Will not allow a car to be setup for the best of both worlds, such as street cruising, racing, or highway driving, unless the car is extremely light, and the engine has very high HP numbers. Has a better gear spread than the 700R4 but not as optimal as the TH350. Not much good to say about this trans. It certainly has a place in some special late model applications, but old school Chevy engines is not one of them.Most all the cons you see for the 700R4 exist within this trans. This trans is not a reliable trans. No TV cable to deal with or shifting linkage. It has pump pressure control and shifting via electronics. Not much good to say about this expensive trans. It is virtually a 700R4 with a modern twist.
The same "pros" mentioned with the 700R4 would apply to this trans. Most of the same issues as the 700R4. Terrible choice to run in an old school carbureted engine. Computer controlled engines may require this unless you bypass the car's computer system.Pointless to run such a terrible transmission. If you insist on such a trans, the 4L80E is a better choice, as it has a normal gear spread, and is a much stronger trans. Still pointless to use with an old school carbureted engine in my opinion. Four and five speed Manual Trans. Excellent acceleration at any speed due to many selective gear ratios. Finding a gear at any cruising speed to hit it hard is easily accomplished with a manual compared to an automatic. In other words, less loss of power due to slippage as encountered with an automatic trans. For some people, the fun factor of shifting gears is one of the high points of owning a street rod. Simple to change out a clutch if needed. And high performance clutch and flywheel, especially the Tremec Series.
Can be somewhat complex to change over from an auto to a manual trans. If you think your car is going to run faster with a manual versus an auto, you will be greatly disappointed.
The automatic transmission can not only shift much faster, but off line acceleration can be controlled to a much greater degree. This is why most drag cars have automatic transmissions.
All things equal, a car equipped with an auto trans will outrun one equipped with a regular street rod manual with great ease. Missing gears when racing can cause damage to your engine, and loss of control of your vehicle should you drop into the previous gear during an aggressive run. Been there a couple times, dropped a valve in brand new Lotus Esprit shifting out of second into first rather than third, and locked up the back wheels on a Dodge Viper shifting into second rather than fourth at high speed.
Nearly lost control of the car at around 80 mph. If you're deciding to run a 5 or 6 speed manual trans because of the overdrive gear, be aware that most engines built with large lopey cams, and single plane intakes running a carb will usually not allow effective use of the overdrive gear.
Tremec T56 transmissions are very popular and highly advanced. They tend to be very notchy to shift when new.Takes many miles before they become easy to shift. They can be difficult to install in some early model classic cars, as they are huge compared to early model transmissions. Still about the best manual trans out there, and can handle very high hp levels. The 6th gear in these transmissions is a double overdrive and will never be useful when running any old school street rod engine unless you are running a very deep final gear. If your engine is built in the upper horse power range, then you must run a level two or three clutch kit.
These clutches are notchy and lack a smooth engagement like a stock clutch. This is very noticeable, and you will adjust to this after a while.
A stock clutch can not be used on any engine in the 500+ hp range. Sadly, your wife may not be able to drive your car with a manual.This could be a plus in some cases. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one Skip White. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.
Please see the article below for a more detailed explanation. I'm sure many of you have noticed there were 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, leading to a great amount of confusion.
White Performance and Machine or Marine. I'm sure many of you have noticed there are two high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, and this has led to a great amount of confusion.We are Skip White Performance, NOT White Performance and Machine or Marine or any other similar name. Many customers looking for us online inadvertently find them, thinking we are the same company. There is no connection between the two companies. We don't have a problem with free enterprise (competition).
However, when the competition builds their foundation on such things as a name similarity and their supposedly long history of being in business, then we think it's about time we set the record straight. We have owned White Performance since 2003, with the exception of the machine shop, which was owned by Fred White at the time. Due to their limited production capability and many disagreements about the engine building process and workmanship, we opted to open a full scale machine shop of our own. Fred White began competing against us even though our contract had a no compete clause in it.
As our business grew over the years, we expanded our operation, and have become the number one street rod engine building in the nation. Due to the name similarity, many people looking for us mistakenly contacted Fred's shop.
The problem continues to this day and the new owners of Fred's shop reap the benefits from this confusion between the two shops. Fortunately we stay plenty busy throughout the year, but a new problem has come up.
We're getting calls nearly on a daily basis from people that realize there are two shops in this town with very similar names and complain of serious problems in getting their engine in a timely manner from them. Due to the confusion, there was an increasing amount of negative talk that is starting to reflect on our reputation within the street rod community, when in fact we have a near perfect reputation in this industry. All in all, we have been in this business for going on 21 years. By putting heart and soul in this company, we have become the number one street rod engine builder in the country. Skip White's passion has been owning and building street rods for 51 years on a personal level.
The knowledge he has gained over time has allowed him to venture into this business and succeed to a very high level. This investor lacks any knowledge of this industry. They continue to use the White Performance & Machine name. Fred White is no longer associated with the company in any way. The great pretenders continued capitalizing from our success, but as mentioned, have been degrading our reputation.Update, The people that took over Fred Whites machine shop are no longer in business as of the past couple years. We have become the largest street rod engine builder and supplier of rotating assemblies in the nation.
Now you know the real story, and we hope this helps with the confusion. OUR COMPANY FOUNDERS PRO STREET HYBRID 240Z CAR.
IT HAS ONE OUR BRAND NEW SBC 427 ENGINES IN IT AND ONE OF OUR TCI SUPER STREET FIGHTER TURBO 350 TRANSMISSIONS. THE CAR IS IN FULL PRO STREET TRIM. SKIP HAS THE CAR UP FOR SALE NOW. HAVE NOT HAD IT TO THE TRACK YET, BUT WE ESTIMATE IT WILL RUN A 9.5 GIVE OR TAKE. HE HAS OWNED IN FOR THE PAST 15 YEARS.
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